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Arancini al ragù 是西西里島街頭美食的最佳寫照:金黃油炸的米飯球,外殼酥脆,內裡包覆著奶油般藏紅花風味的燉飯,外圍圍繞著一匙肉 ragù,中央還藏著一顆融化的莫札瑞拉。這是那種會讓你把其他炸物都拋在腦後的美味,一旦你嚐到真正的版本,就再也不會想要冷凍重熱的副本。我們的食譜需要一些時間,但最終會給你一種盡可能接近抵達西西里島的體驗。
當我踏入巴勒莫的第一個美食市場時,被琳瑯滿目的 arancini 吸引得目不暇給。它們似乎無處不在,小販用歌唱般的意大利語興奮地宣告各自的餡料,無疑受到遊客對油炸食品的喜愛所鼓舞。有些 arancini 內餡是 ricotta 與橄欖,另一些是烤蔬菜或奶酪三重奏,還有現代、創新版本如藍紋起司等。但無論你往哪裡看,在吧台與市集攤位,你都能找到經典的西西里炸飯糰,站著吃、剛從油鍋裡撈起時還熱呼呼的。正是這些炸物讓我們一次又一次地回頭去找、去品嚐。
這個版本在保留原始風味與組成的同時,從頭做起,一步步地堆疊,就像真正的義大利奶奶一樣:先選用含豌豆的快速牛肉 ragù,以及煮至微嫩並顫抖的藏紅花燉飯,然後冷卻至能成型的硬度。藏紅花對味道至為關鍵,能帶出花香般、微微蜂蜜般的香氣,滲透在每一口(但別用太多,否則會帶來苦味)。作為一名食譜開發者與部落客,我不會裝作這是平日就能完成的食譜。它需要特定的材料,並且需要一些時間——正如許多美好事物一樣,但那段時間絕對值得。”
Gather the ingredients for these classic Sicilian arancini al ragù
對於 arancini 的 ragù 內餡,你需要橄欖油、絞牛肉、一顆黃洋蔥、一根胡蘿蔔、一條芹菜、一些蒜瓣、番茄膏、乾紅酒、碎番茄、冷凍豌豆、猶太鹽以及黑胡椒。絞牛肉可以選用瘦肉,或較傳統的80/20混合脂肪比例。
為包裹 ragù 的藏紅花燉飯,需要雞湯、藏紅花線、無鹽奶油、一顆黃洋蔥、阿波羅里歐(Arborio)或卡納羅利(Carnaroli)型米粒的燉飯米、乾白酒、帕爾馬森干酪、雞蛋,以及 kosher 鹽。至於藏紅花,這種世界上最昂貴的香料,請盡量從信譽良好的香料商處購買,或確保你購買的是 A 級等級且色澤鮮紅且鮮艷的藏紅花。請避免直射光線,買到後就像珍貴的寶物一般妥善保存於櫃中。
餡料與外層裹粉所需的材料,還包括新鮮的莫扎里拉起司、全麵粉、雞蛋、日式麵包粉(panko)以及炸油。若願意,也可再加一些帕爾馬森干酪,搭配番茄醬作為沾醬一起享用。
Step 1: Heat a pan with olive oil
對 ragù,於中火的平底鍋中加熱橄欖油。
Step 2: Brown the ground beef
加入絞牛肉,攪碎並煮至上色,約六分鐘。從鍋中取出,置於一旁待用。
Step 3: Add the aromatics
加入洋蔥、胡蘿蔔與芹菜,煮至軟化,大約 5 分鐘。
Step 4: Add the garlic and tomato paste
加入大蒜與番茄膏,攪拌煮1分鐘。
Step 5: Deglaze the pan
加入紅酒,煮至大多數酒液收乾,大約 2 分鐘。
Step 6: Simmer the ragù
把牛肉放回平底鍋中。加入碎番茄,蓋上煮至濃稠,大約 20 分鐘。
Step 7: Season and cool the ragù
在最後 2 分鐘加入豌豆。用鹽與黑胡椒調味,然後讓 ragù 冷卻。
Step 8: Warm the saffron broth
煮香雞湯至微煮,加入藏紅花線,保持小火暖著。
Step 9: Melt the butter
在中火的大鍋中融化一大鍋底部厚實的奶油。
Step 10: Cook the onion and rice
加入洋蔥,煮至軟化,大約 4 分鐘。加入米,拋炒兩分鐘,直到邊緣呈半透明狀態。
Step 11: Add wine and broth
加入白酒,攪拌至吸收為止。再逐勺加入溫熱的藏紅花高湯,一次一勺,頻繁攪拌,等待每次加入的液體吸收後再加入下一勺,直到米飯變得柔軟且帶奶油感,約 20 分鐘。
Step 12: Add the cheese and cool the risotto
取出後拌入帕爾瑪干酪。攤開於烤盤上,放至室溫冷卻,大約 20 分鐘。
Step 13: Whisk in the eggs and refrigerate
冷卻後,將打散的雞蛋加入燉飯中,完全拌勻。覆蓋並放入冰箱,至少冷藏 2 小時,或直到固化到能成型的程度。
Step 14: Shape and fill the arancini
取出約 ¼ 杯燉飯在掌心壓扁成圓盤。中央放入 1 茶匙 ragù 與 1 片莫扎里拉起司方塊。再覆以少量燉飯,捏成球狀,完全封口,確保餡料不外露。
Step 15: Set up a dredging station
設一個裹粉工作站,準備三盤淺碟,分別放麵粉、打散的蛋與日式麵包粉(panko)。
Step 16: Roll each ball in coating
把每顆球裹粉:先裹麵粉,再裹蛋,最後裹麵包粉,輕輕按壓以讓裹粉黏附。
Step 17: Repeat with all the arancini
重複以上步驟,直到所有的飯糰都裹好。
Step 18: Preheat the oil
在深鍋或荷蘭鍋中,將植物油加熱至 350 F(約 175 C),油深約 3 吋。
Step 19: Fry the arancini
分批放入油中油炸,至深金黃酥脆,大約 4 至 5 分鐘,偶爾翻動以讓顏色均勻。
Step 20: Drain and rest the arancini
瀝乾放在擦了紙巾的烤盤上,靜置約 2 分鐘再盛盤享用。
Step 21: Serve the arancini with Parmesan and marinara
趁熱食用,表面再灑上更多帕瑪森,若喜歡也可搭配番茄醬作沾醬。
What can I serve with arancini?
Classic Sicilian Arancini al Ragù Recipe
自製 ragù 與融化的莫扎里拉,在金黃藏紅花燴飯球的中心,成為驚喜的內餡,外層裹著麵衣,炸至金黃酥脆。
Total time: 3 hours, 45 minutes
- For the ragù
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- ¼ pound ground beef
- 1 small yellow onion, finely diced
- 1 carrot, finely diced
- 1 celery stalk, finely diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- ¼ cup dry red wine
- ½ cup canned crushed tomatoes
- ¼ cup frozen peas
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- ½ teaspoon black pepper
- For the saffron risotto
- 4 cups chicken broth
- Pinch of saffron threads
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 small yellow onion, finely diced
- 1 ½ cups risotto rice (Arborio or Carnaroli)
- ½ cup dry white wine
- 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
- 2 large eggs, beaten
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- For filling and coating
- 6 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into ½-inch cubes, patted dry
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 3 large eggs, beaten
- 2 cups panko breadcrumbs
- 2 cups vegetable oil, for frying
- Parmigiano Reggiano, for serving
- Marinara, for serving
- For the ragù, heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat.
- Add the ground beef and cook, breaking it up, until browned, about 6 minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside.
- Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.
- Add the garlic and tomato paste, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
- Add the red wine and simmer until mostly reduced, about 2 minutes.
- Return the beef to the pan. Stir in the crushed tomatoes and simmer covered for 20 minutes, until thickened.
- Stir in the peas during the last 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, then let the ragù cool.
- For the risotto, bring the chicken broth to a simmer in a saucepan and add the saffron threads. Keep warm over low heat.
- Melt the butter in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat.
- Add the onion and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the rice and toast, stirring, for 2 minutes, until the edges turn translucent.
- Add the white wine and cook, stirring, until absorbed. Add the warm saffron broth one ladle at a time, stirring frequently and waiting until each addition is absorbed before adding more, until the rice is tender and creamy, about 20 minutes.
- Remove from heat and stir in the Parmigiano Reggiano. Spread onto a baking sheet and let cool to room temperature, about 20 minutes.
- Once cooled, stir the beaten eggs into the risotto until fully incorporated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or until firm enough to shape.
- Scoop about ¼ cup of the risotto into your palm and flatten it into a disk. Place 1 teaspoon of ragù and a cube of mozzarella in the center. Top with a bit more risotto and shape it into a ball, sealing it completely so no filling is exposed.
- Set up a dredging station with flour, beaten eggs, and panko in three separate shallow dishes.
- Coat each ball in flour, then egg, then panko, pressing gently to adhere.
- Repeat till all the balls are coated.
- Heat 3 inches of vegetable oil in a deep pot or Dutch oven to 350 F.
- Fry the arancini in batches until deep golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes, turning occasionally for even color.
- Drain on a paper towel-lined tray and let rest for 2 minutes before serving.
- Serve immediately with more Parmesan on top, and optional marinara sauce.
| Calories per Serving | 593 |
| Total Fat | 37.8 g |
| Saturated Fat | 8.4 g |
| Trans Fat | 0.3 g |
| Cholesterol | 111.3 mg |
| Total Carbohydrates | 41.9 g |
| Dietary Fiber | 1.5 g |
| Total Sugars | 3.5 g |
| Sodium | 602.5 mg |
| Protein | 18.2 g |
The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.
Are there any alternatives to deep-frying arancini?
油炸是製作 arancini 的傳統做法,原因很充分——它能讓外殼呈現均勻的金黃、脆裂口感,封住內餡,賦予 arancini 標誌性的口感。不過,如果你不想處理一大鍋熱油,還是有替代方法可以使用。
烘烤是最常見的替代方案。把裹好粉的 arancini 均勻塗抹或噴灑橄欖油,放在有烘紙的烤盤上,表面再刷上一層油以增添光澤。以 400°F(約 204°C)烘烤,烘到一半時翻面,直到金黃。不同焗爐的效能會略有差異,若需要也可提高至 425°F(約 220°C)。外皮不會像炸的那樣酥脆且顏色均勻,但仍會保持形狀。
空氣炸鍋的效果會更好,因為循環熱能能讓麵包粉脆化並更接近傳統的結果。不過缺點是通常需要分批處理,因為空氣炸鍋的容量較小。請大方噴油,並確保不要把米飯球塞得太密,留出空間讓空氣流通。
What is risotto rice, and what are the best types for making arancini?
燉飯米是短粒、高澱粉的意大利米,專為逐步吸收液體並釋放澱粉而培育。這種米正是賦予燉飯那種奶油般的稠滑口感的原因,也是把米飯包覆成 arancini 的理想選擇。千萬不要用長粒米去煮燉飯或做 arancini,因為它不具備足夠的澱粉性與可塑性,無法恰當地包覆內餡。
某些米種比其他更適合燉飯,其中最廣為人知的是 Arborio。它最廣泛可得,煮起來柔軟且濃稠,通常在超市都能輕鬆找到。如果你只想為餐櫃購買一種特別的米,那就選 Arborio 吧。
但如果你能找得到另一種更棒的,這也是我的偏好。Carnaroli 米是燉飯的另一個最佳選擇,也是許多專業廚師的首選。它的米粒在慢煮過程中較能保住形狀,不容易煮過頭,煮出來的燴飯更 Creamier、結構更穩固。這使得它非常適合用於燉飯與 arancini,因為較硬的米粒在冷卻後塑形成球時能更好地堅實,不易在裹粉與煎炸過程中破裂。我在這道食譜中使用的是在意大利購得的 Carnaroli Classico Gran Riserva,它比一般 Carnaroli 的口感更緊實、年分也較久。但這就像是錦上添花,並非必需,只要你在附近超市買到的良好燉飯米也能同樣適用。